A city break on the French Riviera: 3 sun-soaked ideas

Menton, Monaco, Nice. Three towns that follow one another over just a few kilometers, linked by a train that hugs the Mediterranean coastline, and which together capture everything we love about the French Riviera: colorful old towns, breathtaking viewpoints, and that little Italian touch that seems to float in the air everywhere.

If you’re looking for a city break on the French Riviera, you’re in the right place! In April, we spent three days visiting these three towns, one per day, without a car, just hopping on the trains that run along the coast. Here’s our story, town by town, with everything you need to plan your own family getaway.

Menton, the town of lemons

The old town, a must-see

Menton, the last French town before Italy, belonged to the Principality of Monaco for a long time before becoming French in the 19th century. That history still shows in its architecture: colorful facades, stepped alleyways, a distinctly transalpine feel. It’s a pleasure to get lost here, between the Place aux Herbes with its fountains and the small streets climbing toward the historic heart of town.

Right at the top, the Saint-Michel-Archange Basilica overlooks the town. Built in the 17th century and raised to the rank of minor basilica by Pope John Paul II in 1999, it forms, together with the Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs right next door, a rather spectacular baroque ensemble, standing on a forecourt paved with 250,000 hand-sorted pebbles. The view from the forecourt, over the bay and the rooftops of the old town, is worth the climb on its own.

Continuing further up, you reach the Old Castle Cemetery, built on the remains of a medieval fortress. This is THE viewpoint of Menton: the bay on one side, Italy close enough to make out clearly on the other.

Heading back down to the sea

From the cathedral square, you head back down toward the beach via the Rampes, a grand theatrical staircase (careful if the ground is wet, it gets slippery). At the bottom, make for Plage des Sablettes, a small sheltered swimming spot, perfect for kids!

From there, you reach the more touristy harbor district, with its ice cream shops, restaurants and the two Jean Cocteau museums. One, housed in a building designed by Rudy Ricciotti, holds the Séverin Wunderman collection, the largest public resource in the world dedicated to Cocteau’s work: drawings, ceramics, photographs, over 1,800 pieces in total. The other, the Bastion Museum, was the first museum ever dedicated to Cocteau during his lifetime.

If you’re in Menton during winter: the Lemon Festival

We weren’t there at the right time of year, but it’s impossible to talk about Menton without mentioning its most iconic event: the Fête du Citron (Lemon Festival). Every year, between mid-February and early March, the town transforms into a giant tribute to the citrus fruit that made it famous. Along the Promenade du Soleil, floats entirely covered in lemons and oranges parade to music during the “corsos” of golden fruit, while the Biovès gardens host giant sculptures crafted from tons of citrus fruit, worth admiring by day and by night.

The event draws more than 250,000 visitors every year, and it’s easy to see why: you won’t find a more fragrant carnival anywhere else. If you’re planning your trip for this period, it’s best to book your parade seats in advance and take the train, since Menton’s station is right next to the festivities.

Good to know for a day in Menton with kids

• The tourist office offers a family explorer bag with a fun trail through town. Based on advice from the tourist office staff, plan for a full day to make the most of it. Price: €15.
• The Jean Cocteau Museum offers family-friendly guided tours and workshops on Wednesdays.
• A small tourist train, with commentary aimed at kids, will take you around the lovely town of Menton. More information and booking here.

Monaco, between the Rock and the sea

Heading to the Rock

From Place d’Armes, there are two ways to reach the Prince’s Palace: the Rampe Majeure, a staircase that climbs straight up, or Avenue de la Porte Neuve, which follows the sea with a sweeping view over the harbor and which skirts around the Rock before reaching Place du Palais.

On the Rock, Monaco’s historic quarter, you’ll find most of the main sights: the Prince’s Palace, where the Changing of the Guard takes place every day at 11:55am (a bit of fun folklore for kids, but arrive early if you want a good spot), the Cathedral of Monaco, where several princes of the Grimaldi family are laid to rest, and the Oceanographic Museum. This last one is well worth a family visit: over 6,000 marine specimens, an impressive shark lagoon, and a panoramic terrace at the top of the building.

Oceanographic Museum: open every day except the weekend of the Formula 1 Grand Prix and December 25th, 10am-6pm from October to March, 10am-7pm from April to June and in September, 9:30am-8pm in July and August. €22.50 per adult, €14 for ages 4-17. Save time and buy your tickets here. Combined tickets exist with the Exotic Garden, the car collection or the Prince’s Palace.

The Prince’s Palace can also be visited. The tour offers insight into Monaco’s place in European history and houses numerous works of art. Temporary exhibitions invite visitors to learn a bit more about the life of the princely family, always surrounded by plenty of glamour.

Prince’s Palace: Place du Palais, open late March to mid-October, 10am-6pm (7pm in July and August), closed the weekend of the Grand Prix and a few other days. €13 per adult, €8 for ages 6-17. Not stroller-accessible. Audio guide and booklet available for ages 6-11. More information and booking here.

The Saint-Martin gardens and Fontvieille

Heading back down from the Rock, the Saint-Martin Gardens offer a lovely shaded break, with a bench facing the sea that’s perfect for a picnic. From there you can reach Fontvieille harbor, Monaco’s second port, via a path that follows the hillside. This area is also home to the Princess Grace Rose Garden, pleasant but fairly modest in size.

From there, you can catch a bus up to the Exotic Garden. After 6 years of renovation work, the garden reopened in spring 2026. It houses a garden of succulent plants, a botanical center and a cave, all with a stunning view over Monaco and the sea below. We didn’t visit the garden itself but climbed up for the view!

Monaco Exotic Garden: 62, Bd du Jardin Exotique, open daily (except Grand Prix days, November 19th and December 25th) from 9am to 5pm (6pm from February to April and in October, 7pm from May to September). €12 per adult, €6 for ages 4-17, €15/€8 with the cave or botanical center, €18/€10 for garden + cave + botanical center, free for Monaco residents. Guided tours of the cave and botanical center are included with the entry ticket.

Toward Larvotto and Mareterra

Coming down from the Exotic Garden, we headed toward Larvotto beach and the brand-new Mareterra district. The walk down is easy and lets you discover new streets in Monaco. You might pass by the famous Pouce de César (César’s Thumb sculpture).

As for Mareterra, this extension built entirely on the sea opened at the end of 2024. It’s a largely pedestrian district, with wide open spaces for kids to run around, a seafront promenade, and even a work by Alexander Calder set facing a mirror pool. A striking contrast with the historic alleyways of the Rock.

Around the Casino and Port Hercule

Leaving Mareterra to the south, cross the Japanese Garden, continue through the Petite Afrique Gardens and finally reach the legendary Monte-Carlo Casino. You won’t be able to go inside with kids, but the building is worth a look.

Continue on to Port Hercule and the Prince of Monaco’s Car Collection. Close to a hundred cars are on display there. The oldest dates back to 1903. You’ll also find racing cars and some seriously luxurious vehicles!

Car Collection: 54, route de la piscine, open daily, 10am-6pm (7pm between June and August), closed on Grand Prix weekends and December 25th. €15 per adult, €10 for ages 6-17.

Good to know for a day in Monaco with kids

• A bus ticket costs €1.50 and can be paid directly by card on board, no cash or ticket needed. Handy for reaching the Exotic Garden or skipping some of the climbs.
• Monaco is a town of staircases. You’ll also find 78 free public elevators, escalators and moving walkways, all stroller-accessible, which help you get around the elevation changes between the port, Monte-Carlo and the Rock.
• If your trip coincides with a major event (Historic Grand Prix, Formula 1 Grand Prix, E-Prix), some museums close and pedestrian traffic is heavily disrupted. It’s worth checking the calendar before fixing your dates. Without realizing it, we were in Monaco the weekend of the Historic Grand Prix and got to watch the practice sessions for free on Friday. A unique experience, but also a lot of noise in town!
• If you’re generally into art, you might want to rework your walking route through Monaco to admire the more than 200 sculptures scattered across the Principality. Let yourself be guided on this page.

Nice, back to where it all began

Our third day took us to Nice, where the modern tramway makes it easy to reach Parc Phœnix, the Promenade des Anglais, Place Masséna and the old town (Vieux-Nice). We cover this day in detail, with all our addresses and family tips, in our dedicated article on visiting Nice.

It’s a bit of a pilgrimage for us every time, since Nice is where we met and studied.

What we love most about Nice:

• The Prom’. Of course! The Promenade des Anglais, running along the Baie des Anges, is iconic. On foot, by bike, on rollerblades, it’s worth strolling along. Take a break on the blue chairs or on the pebbly beaches! In season, pack your swimsuit!
• Place Masséna and the Promenade du Paillon. A space designed for pedestrians. Besides being pretty, it’s green and cool. The water mirror will finish cooling you off.
• The old town (Vieux Nice) with its Italian-town feel. Wander the narrow streets, duck into churches at random, and don’t skip an ice cream stop at Fenocchio or Azzuro. Our two favorite ice cream shops!
• Castle Hill. Climb up for the view while the kids enjoy the playground. An essential stop!

Practical information for a city break on the French Riviera

Getting between the three towns

The train is by far the simplest way to link the three stops, without worrying about parking or the traffic on the lower coastal road:

• Menton to Monaco: about 10 to 15 minutes
• Monaco to Nice: about 20 minutes
• Menton to Nice: about 35 to 40 minutes

Trains run frequently (several per hour) and serve all three stations right in the town centers. Be sure to buy your tickets in advance, as ticket checks are common, especially on routes close to the Italian border.

How much time should you plan?

Three days, one per town, is enough to see the essentials without rushing. If you have more time, a full day in Menton with the tourist office’s explorer bag, or an extra morning in Monaco to visit the Exotic Garden, are good ways to slow the pace down.

For a slightly longer stay, you’re just a short trip away from the hinterland and its charming villages like Eze or La Turbie, for example. Some lovely little hikes await! And of course, the kids will be thrilled if you leave time for the beach!

Which season to choose?

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons, with fewer tourists and mild temperatures. If you’re planning to pass through Monaco, check the dates of the Historic Grand Prix and the Formula 1 Grand Prix, which completely reshape traffic in town and close certain sites.

For swimming, the season runs from May through September, sometimes into October depending on the year. We were there in April and it was still fairly cool, at least for the adults!

Where to stay?

On our latest trip to the Côte d’Azur, we stayed in Menton and in Nice. I wouldn’t particularly recommend staying in Monaco because, while it’s a nice town to visit at least once, I don’t think you gain much by basing yourself there with a family.

On our trips, we’re big fans of renting apartments. It gives us complete freedom when it comes to meals, whether that’s timing or what we actually eat!

Here are the places we tested, plus one extra in Menton, which looked absolutely perfect, though we unfortunately couldn’t visit due to construction work!

• A large 2-bedroom apartment in Nice, ideally located in the Gambetta district
• A small house in the center of Menton, just steps away from the train station, the Biovès Gardens, and the beach
• A cozy apartment with a garden near the Menton Garavan train station

If these options are unavailable, you’re sure to find something you like on this map:

 

Menton, Monaco and Nice make a perfect trio for a family city break on the French Riviera: three different atmospheres, three old towns to explore on foot, and a train that does all the connecting work. Enough to fill three full, rewarding days, without ever needing a car.

♥♥♥ Flo & co ♥♥♥

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