3 days in the Périgord Noir with family

Last week, we spent a few days in the Dordogne. I had already wandered the streets of Bergerac and Sarlat when my brother lived in the region, but I didn’t remember much. As for my husband, born and raised in the Landes, he only had a vague memory of family visits to Périgueux. And yet, everyone knows the Dordogne is beautiful! So let me take you with me for 3 days in the Périgord Noir.

Where is the Périgord Noir? What is it, exactly?

The Périgord Noir is a small part of the Dordogne, located in the southeast of the department, on the border with the Lot. The area earned the name “black” (noir) because of the many holm oaks that grow there, trees with very dark foliage. Holm oaks also happen to be ideal for growing truffles, those delicious mushrooms worth their weight in gold. Mushrooms that happen to be black, so it all comes full circle.

The area is centred around the town of Sarlat-la-Canéda, better known simply as Sarlat, home to just under 10,000 people but a lively, remarkably well preserved medieval town.

3 days in the Périgord Noir: the itinerary

Here are a few visits to consider for your own family trip to the Périgord Noir.

The Lascaux caves

At Lascaux, as you may know, visitors do not see the original cave. A first replica opened to the public in 1983: Lascaux II. The real cave, discovered in 1940, was already showing signs of wear and contamination by the end of the 1950s. Lascaux III was created in the 2000s as a travelling exhibition, so the site could reach a wider audience. Today, we visit Lascaux IV, a complete replica of every decorated section of the original cave. Lascaux IV sits inside a strikingly modern rock art centre, located about 500 metres from the real cave, which is now carefully preserved and shielded from visitor traffic.

Is it worth it?

Oh, absolutely, this visit is well worth it. We listened to Marie-Elise, our wonderfully passionate guide, for over an hour without noticing the time pass. Lascaux can only be visited with a guided tour, and thank goodness for that, otherwise you’d completely miss the point. The setting (a replica of the original cave, remember) is genuinely stunning, and the story behind these 20,000 year old cave paintings is fascinating.

And that’s without even having access to everything that usually accompanies the visit: films, exhibitions, the 3D cinema, all put on hold thanks to Covid. But honestly, the cave itself is the real highlight.

The tour isn’t specifically designed for children, but there were kids of all ages in our group, and every one of them was captivated. Some concepts can be tricky for younger children to grasp; there’s vocabulary tied to prehistory and art that isn’t necessarily accessible to everyone. For some things, we took the time to explain in simpler words for our kids; for others, we let it go, and that’s fine too. They were mesmerised by the animals around them, painted, engraved, in yellow, orange, brown, black.

In short, it was fantastic.

You’ll find all the practical information on the official Lascaux website. Plan ahead if you’re visiting during French school holidays.

The National Museum of Prehistory

Continuing on the prehistoric theme, we headed to Les Eyzies to visit the National Museum of Prehistory. Our Lascaux guide had warmly recommended it (though I do question her impartiality, given how passionate she clearly was about the subject).

In this small, well stocked museum, we particularly loved a few striking pieces: a mammoth, a cast of Lucy’s skeleton, and the statue on the terrace.

To keep the kids engaged, we signed them up for a workshop on reindeer, an animal that was a key food source for our ancestors. We only booked this small workshop the day before, but in peak season it’s probably worth booking further ahead.

They had a short guided tour past certain museum displays, followed by a more hands-on workshop: comparing antlers and bones, studying and reproducing reindeer engravings, and finishing with a small sculpting session. Each child left with their own little reindeer made from air drying clay. Challenge for the parents: getting it home in one piece so it could dry properly.

Bottom line, they loved it.

Full details are on the museum’s website. Entry is free for under 18s. The workshop costs €7 per child. Themed activity booklets are also available.

The Gardens of Marqueyssac

South of Sarlat, you enter the valley of the five chateaux: Beynac, Marqueyssac, Castelnaud, Les Milandes (Joséphine Baker’s chateau), and Fayrac (now a holiday home for an American family, of course). We started exploring this area with Marqueyssac. From the top of the cliff, there’s a breathtaking view over Beynac, Fayrac, and Castelnaud (Les Milandes is hidden behind a hill). The Dordogne river winds below, and the view is simply stunning.

We spent an entire morning in the hanging gardens of Marqueyssac. We loved every bit of it, and the time flew by.

• The guided tour, tracing a bit of the chateau’s history, and especially that of its boxwood gardens
• The various walking paths leading to the belvedere at the far end (about 1 kilometre from the entrance), some running along the cliffside, others through a shaded woodland setting
• The view over the valley of the five chateaux, and, further along, over the village of La Roque-Gageac
• The short suspended net course

There’s also a small activity booklet for kids, though we didn’t have time for it, too busy scrambling around everywhere. Families with children over 8 might also want to try the via ferrata, which looked brilliant.

Full information is on the Marqueyssac website. Entry is free for under 10s, and there’s a combined ticket available with Castelnaud.

The Castle of Castelnaud

At the Castle of Castelnaud (Château de Castelnaud in French), you step into the Middle Ages, and more specifically the second half of it. We’re on the English side, with the battle raging against the French at Beynac. Well, on the days when combat is allowed, which is Monday to Wednesday, outside of any religious observance, so not that often. We joined another guided tour, and once again, it was fascinating. The defence of a castle like Castelnaud holds no secrets for us now, nor does everyday life in the castle and village at the time.

We’re big fans of medieval castle visits. I’ve also written about the Castle of Suscinio, in Brittany.

During our visit, the castle was hosting a Playmobil exhibition. Numerous medieval scenes were recreated, and visitors had to spot the characters that didn’t belong: an astronaut, an American football player, and so on. As you can imagine, the kids loved it.

Here too, there’s a small activity booklet for children aged 7 and up, and this time we actually took the time to do it.

In peak season, I’m sure the village comes alive and is lovely to wander through. In February, it was very quiet, but still so beautiful. Honestly, we never got tired of the view.

All the practical information is on the Castelnaud website. Entry is free for under 10s. If you’re travelling with very young children, leave the stroller behind, it would be a real challenge here.

Where to stay to explore the Périgord Noir with kids

From spring onward, and of course in summer, camping in the Dordogne is a great option. Mobile homes, chalets, or tent and caravan pitches shaded by trees, you’re sure to find something that suits you. The bonus with campsites: swimming pools, playgrounds, kids’ clubs, food services and small grocery shops, everything to make your holiday easier.

For our short February trip, we stayed at the Résidence Odalys in Sarlat. We had a small cottage with a kitchenette, one bedroom, and a bathroom. It wasn’t very big, but perfectly functional and just right for a family of four. The residence also has a pool, a playground, mini golf, ping pong tables, and more, all included. Given how short our stay was, we obviously didn’t get to try everything, but it was really good.

A varied range of options for every budget and every taste

The region is quite touristy, so there’s a wide range of accommodation to choose from. I found that staying in Sarlat was a good compromise for exploring the whole area without too much driving. Have a look at the map below and find what suits you best.

 

Why we’ll go back

I’ve told you about a few places to visit here, but the Périgord Noir is also lovely old villages, rivers, pretty little bridges, and genuinely excellent food. In short, everything about it is pleasant and beautiful.

We’ll try to go back as a family to this part of the Périgord, but in a different season. From the Easter holidays onward, a lot more will already be open, and the villages will be a bit more lively.

We only spent 3 days in the Périgord Noir (barely), even though this little corner of the Dordogne could easily keep you busy for a week. There’s so much to see without covering many kilometres. I’m thinking especially of the Gouffre de Proumeyssac, the Château des Milandes, the Château de Beynac, or the Gardens of Salignac and the village of La Roque-Gageac, which we would have loved to explore. And of course, a canoe trip on the Dordogne looked like a lot of fun too.

One small caveat: entry fees to these sites can add up quickly, so it’s worth knowing that in advance and budgeting for it. On the plus side, guided tours are very often free, as is entry for children, along with the activity booklets and so on.

Does anyone else know the Périgord Noir, and have you already wandered these lanes with your own family? Has this article made you want to discover this lovely little corner of France? Come tell us about it in the comments or on social media!

♥♥♥ Flo & co ♥♥♥

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